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The Jew Street in Mattancheri was once a very important trade centre if Jews in Kochi. This market is noted for its antique shops which sell curios, pieces of crockery, furniture and so on. The products now mostly come from Kashmir. This street ends at the famous Paradesi Synagogue. I walked through the street and was soon standing in front of the Synagogue. It was almost 3PM and I waited patiently outside to get inside. The synagogue opens only at 3 in the evening. Along with me, there were a few foreigners and some north Indians waiting for it to open.
The buildings along the road are painted either green or yellow and seem to be struggling to retain its individuality. Let’s recall the history of this street. This street was gifted to the Jews who had come here to trade with the then Kochi ruler. The land allocated to the Jews was close to the palace and soon came to be known as the Mathancheri. ‘Mathan’ means gift in Hebrew language. Cheri means place in Malayalam. Soon Mathancheri became the present Mattancheri. The street was established in the year 1567.
Jews had been in Kochi much before the street came up. They were present in Kodungallur long before many decided to stay as a community in Mattancheri. In those days Kodungallur was known as Muziris. According to historical documents, the ships of King Solomon had come to Muziris for trade.
The Jews are of two communities. The black Jews who are of African origin and the white Jews. This division has got nothing to do with skin color. It is more based on race and genealogy. The two communities can’t see eye to eye. Racism exist between them. The two community has separate Synagogues.
The Jews who settled here soon adopted the Malayalam language and identified enthusiastically with Kerala customs and traditions. We can also find the influence of Jews among the natives here. Many words like Hameesha, sheesha, Asaara all come from the Hebrew language.
Next my aim was to see the Synagogue of the black Jews. I must have walked almost half an hour before I reached the synagogue. The building is in ruins now. I brushed aside the weeds growing in front of it and stood in front of it. There is a board sign outside which says it is a property of the bank. The synagogue has no doors; most of them have been stolen by anti-social elements. A part of it in complete wreck. The synagogue is now the home to pigeons and bats.
In 1948, the Jews migrated to Israel. Since there were no believers, the two synagogues remained closed. The Jewish wealth was either sold or taken over by the government. There is a news that the government is planning to take over the synagogue that belonged to the black Jews.
